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STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS
(WALLS)

Step 1.

Dust down the prepared surface and remove any grease or dirt. Seal the surface with a suitable primer or waterproofing if required. Mark out level lines using a spirit level on the blank wall surface. The surface must be able to support 40kg per square metre.
 

Step 2.

Mix the tile adhesive to the desired consistency following manufacturer’s instructions. You can either apply the glue to the wall or alternatively butter the backs of the brick tiles. The adhesive chosen must meet or exceed ANSI 118.4 and ANSI 118.11 adhesion standards. Common adhesives used include LATICRETE 335 Super Flex and Ardex X17. Please note you must fully read the instructions of any adhesive used to ensure it is appropriate for your specific application.

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(for On Mesh System)

If using our range of brick tiles pre-stuck to mesh, then the glue must be applied to the wall first then the sheet of brick tiles is pressed into the glue. Depending on the type of glue used and your ability to handle the sheets, sheets can be cut down to smaller pieces if required. 

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Step 3.

Apply the first course of brick facings to the surface in the desired pattern, cutting in where necessary. Use spacers to space the brick tiles to the desired spacing. Note, brick facings do not need to be spaced, a dry stack look can be achieved by butting the brick facings up against each other.

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(for On Mesh System)

Spacing is required only between the sheets, tiles on the sheets are already spaced.

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Step 4.

Once all of the tiling is complete, the adhesive has dried and the facings are completely dry, brush down to remove all excess dust with a stiff brush. Do not rush this step, take the time to get the bricks completely dry and brush thoroughly from top to bottom.

 

Step 5. (Optional)

While many of our brick facings come with white scumming by default, for many it can be applied as an option. If adding a mineral white wash to your brick facings do so at this stage. 

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Step 6A.

(Only applies to Roman Pale Sanded Grey brick tiles, does not apply to any other brick tile types)

A second coat of weathering tint should be applied at this point followed by sealing.

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Step 6B. (Optional)

You may wish to add a first coat of sealant to protect the brick facings (this is optional – but recommended in kitchen areas to avoid any grease splashes or marks). 
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Step 7. Pointing or German Smear

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Pointing

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the pointing mortar or pre-made grout to the desired consistency and colour. Add mortar into the pointing gun or pointing bag and apply the mortar into the joints. Once the mortar/grout has dried to a stage where it is no longer tacky to the touch, shape the joint using a jointing tool followed by dry brushing to remove mortar/grout dags. Never sponge the joints, this will simply spread a thin veneer of grout/mortar over the brick face.

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German Smear

The German Smear finish is a type of mortar wash (or smear). It involves troweling mortar onto a brick wall and then wiping some of it off to expose parts of the brick. We typically advise pointing first (as above) followed by the smearing​.

 

There is no right or wrong to the "German Smear" technique, its just personal preference - its always best to test batches of mortar and application styles on spare bricks before you start on the main project to determine the type of smeared finish you want.​ If you are not confident in how to German Smear, white washing is a  easier technique that produces similar results, you can learn about white washing here.

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Step 8. (Optional)

Once the area is pointed/smeared and dry, ensure the slips are clean, dry and free of dust. If sealing (optional), apply a final coat of sealer to protect the surface of the brickwork.

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IMPORTANT: RECLAMATION STYLES

Our reclamation style brick facings, which can be identified by the white scumming/german smearing on the brick surface (and the use of the term reclamation in their name), should not be wet sponged. During pointing, the excess mortar should be cut off with a trowel. Mortar dags and smears on the work face should be removed by dry brushing within 1-2 days. We advise that only white mortars should be used with our reclamation styles, this allows the mortar to match the colour of the white scumming on the brick facings.

The above advice is for pointing only, if using a smear technique feel free to wet sponge.

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Please be aware that as our brick facings are cut from genuine handmade brick when you get them they may be still wet or damp. The final colour will not become apparent until they have dried.

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TOOLS REQUIRED OR HANDY TO HAVE

  • Brick facings of your choice

  • Tile adhesive
    (e.g. LATICRETE 335 Super Flex, Ardex X17. Please note while these adhesives are suitable for many applications, it is important that you read the instructions for each adhesive to ensure the glue you choose is suitable for your specific application).

  • Mixing Bucket

  • Mortar or Grout - if using grout a wide joint grout such as ARDEX WJ 50 must be used.

  • Pencil

  • Tile Spacers

  • Brick Jointing Tool

  • Spirit Level

  • Pointing mortar gun or piping bag (highly recommended)

  • Sealant (Optional - Matt or Gloss depending on what look you want)

  • Stiff Brush

  • Tape Measure

  • Angle grinder with masonry wheel

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IMPORTANT

* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.

STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS
(FLOORS)

Step 1.

Dust down the prepared surface and remove any grease or dirt. Seal the surface with a suitable primer or waterproofing if required. The surface must be floor grade, such as a cement slab or floor grade cement sheeting.
 

Step 2.

Mix the tile adhesive to the desired consistency following manufacturer’s instructions. You can either apply the glue to the wall or alternatively butter the backs of the brick tiles. The adhesive chosen must meet or exceed ANSI 118.4 and ANSI 118.11 adhesion standards. Common adhesives used include LATICRETE 335 Super Flex and Ardex X17. Please note you must fully read the instructions of any adhesive used to ensure it is appropriate for your specific application.

​

(for On Mesh System)

If using our range of brick tiles pre-stuck to mesh, then the glue must be applied to the floor first then the sheet of brick tiles is pressed into the glue. Depending on the type of glue used and your ability to handle the sheets, sheets can be cut down to smaller pieces. if required.

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Step 3.

Apply the first course of brick facings to the surface in the desired pattern, cutting in where necessary. Use spacers to space the brick tiles to the desired spacing. Note, brick facings do not need to be spaced, a paving look can be achieved by butting the brick facings up against each other.

​​

Step 4.

Once all of the tiling is complete, the adhesive has dried and the facings are completely dry, brush down to remove all excess dust with a stiff brush. Do not rush this step, take the time to get the bricks completely dry and brush thoroughly from top to bottom.

 

Step 5. (Optional)

While many of our brick facings come with white scumming by default, for many it can be applied as an option. If adding a mineral white wash to your brick facings do so at this stage. 

​

Step 6. Pointing or German Smear

Pointing

Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the pointing mortar or pre-made grout to the desired consistency and colour. Add mortar into the pointing gun or pointing bag and apply the mortar into the joints. Once the mortar/grout has dried to a stage where it is no longer tacky to the touch, shape the joint using a jointing tool followed by dry brushing to remove mortar/grout dags. Never sponge the joints, this will simply spread a thin veneer of grout/mortar over the brick face.

​

German Smear

The German Smear finish is a type of mortar wash (or smear). It involves troweling mortar onto a brick wall and then wiping some of it off to expose parts of the brick. We typically advise pointing first (as above) followed by the smearing​.

 

There is no right or wrong to the "German Smear" technique, its just personal preference - its always best to test batches of mortar and application styles on spare bricks before you start on the main project to determine the type of smeared finish you want.​ If you are not confident in how to German Smear, white washing is a  easier technique that produces similar results, you can learn about white washing here.

​

Step 8. Sealing

Sealing is a must for any flooring application. Simple sealants for clay tiles can be found in most hardware stores.

 

Please also be aware that as our brick facings are cut from genuine handmade brick when you get them they may be still wet or damp. The final colour will not become apparent until they have dried.

​

TOOLS REQUIRED OR HANDY TO HAVE

  • Brick facings of your choice

  • Tile adhesive
    ​(e.g. LATICRETE 335 Super Flex, Ardex X17. Please note while these adhesives are suitable for many applications, it is important that you read the instructions for each adhesive to ensure the glue you choose is suitable for your specific application).

  • Mixing Bucket

  • Mortar or Grout - if using grout a wide joint grout such as ARDEX WJ 50 must be used.

  • Pencil

  • Tile Spacers

  • Brick Jointing Tool

  • Spirit Level

  • Pointing mortar gun or piping bag (highly recommended)

  • Sealant (Optional - Matt or Gloss depending on what look you want)

  • Stiff Brush

  • Tape Measure

  • Angle grinder with masonry wheel

 

IMPORTANT

* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.

SUBSTRATE

The substrate is the surface the brick tiles/slips/facings are to be stuck to. Brick tiles can be stuck to many substrates with the key requirements being that the substrate must be able to support 40kg per sq. m. Like all building works, the substrate must be designed and built to comply with relevant building standards (e.g.):

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• Concrete designed in accordance with AS 3600;

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• Timber framing designed in accordance with AS 1720 and/or AS 1684 and clad with cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;;

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• Structural steel in accordance with AS 4100 and clad with cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;

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• Lightweight steel frames in accordance with AS 4600 and clad with cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;

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• Masonry in accordance with AS 3700 and/or AS4773;

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• Permanent formwork systems, designed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions;

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The adhesive chosen must meet or exceed ANSI 118.4 and ANSI 118.11 adhesion standards and be compatible with both clay brick and the substrate. It is important that you read the instructions for any adhesive to ensure the glue you choose is suitable for your specific application.

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When a weatherproof external wall is required, an appropriate rigid air barrier, or pliable building membrane manufactured to AS 4200.1 is required to be fitted over the substrate.

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IMPORTANT

* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.

​

SEALING

You may wish to add a sealant to protect the brick facings (this is optional – but recommended in kitchen areas to avoid any grease splashes or marks). Ensure the brick facings are clean, dry and free of dust before the sealant is applied. You can use either a gloss "wet" look sealant or a matt sealant. Sealing will change/modify the colour of the brick facings, especially wet look sealants (less so for matt sealants).

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Sealing for floors is a must.

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We highly recommend you trial sealants on some spare brick facings before sealing the entire wall or floor.

MORTAR/GROUT CHOICE

IMPORTANT

The following section deals with making a sand cement mortar. If you don't want to make your own mortar, you can use premixed grouts in any colour you wish (e.g. ARDEX WJ 50). The biggest advantage with premixed grouts is the wider variety of colours available as well as greater control on colour consistency from batch to batch. For DIY installers, we would generally recommend WJ50 grouts.

 

Choosing a mortar colour is really important. Broadly mortar colours can be divided into four broad types: dark grey/black, grey, yellow (buttery) and white (creamy).

 

Yellow/Buttery Mortar

Yellow or a buttery colour is the most common colour used and is produced by using a yellow brick sand combined with an off white cement, this will produce a buttery coloured mortar, the addition of hydrated lime will lighten this colour further.

 

Creamy White

For a creamy white mortar you use a white brick sand with a pure white cement.

 

Grey

This is the most simplest mortar colour to achieve and is just a simple mix of grey cement and white (best) or yellow brick sand. Standard grey mortar can also be purchased premixed in most hardware stores.

 

Dark Grey to Black

For dark grey to black mortars a black oxide must be added to the standard grey cement. Black oxides can be purchased readily at most hardware stores.

 

Both sand, cements and coloured oxides are readily available from hardware stores (e.g. Bunnings). To stress the point, yellow and white mortar can not be produced with the standard grey cement and for a true white mortar you must use a pure white cement and white brick sand. Links to examples of these products can be found below:

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If you want a very traditional white mortar you can also use hydraulic lime (not to be confused with hydrated lime), it is unlikely that you will find hydraulic lime in a normal hardware store but we are happy to supply it for you....just ask.

 

Mortaring can be done via a few methods but the easiest way for beginners is a mortaring gun, again we are happy to supply you with a mortaring gun.....just ask.

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IMPORTANT

* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.

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Think Brink

Think Brick is the Australian clay brick and paver manufacturers association and they have a large range of instructional manuals available covering all aspects of brick masonry. These manuals are freely available and can be downloaded from their website

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