Brick Tile Installation Guide
Step by Step Instructions
Dust down the prepared surface and remove any grease or dirt. Seal the surface with a suitable primer or waterproofing if required. Mark out level lines using a spirit level on the blank wall surface. The surface must be able to support 35kg per square metre. Substrates must be constructed according to the relevant Australian Standard for the chosen substrate you are using (see bottom of page for further information).
Mix the tile adhesive to the desired consistency following manufacturer’s instructions. You can either apply the glue to the wall or alternatively butter the backs of the brick tiles. The adhesive chosen must meet or exceed ANSI 118.4 and ANSI 118.11 adhesion standards. Common adhesives used include LATICRETE 335 Super Flex and Ardex X17 or X18. Please note you must fully read the instructions of any adhesive used to ensure it is appropriate for your specific application. If using externally, a waterproof membrane will be required, all major adhesive manufacturers will advise the appropriate product to use with their adhesives.
Apply the first course of brick facings to the surface in the desired pattern, cutting in where necessary. Use spacers to space the brick tiles to the desired spacing. Note, brick facings do not need to be spaced, a dry stack look can be achieved by butting the brick facings up against each other.
Once all of the tiling is complete, the adhesive has dried and the facings are completely dry, brush down to remove all excess dust with a stiff brush. Do not rush this step, take the time to get the bricks completely dry and brush thoroughly from top to bottom. If you intend to seal the brick tiles, a first coat can be applied at this time.
Pointing
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, mix the pointing mortar or pre-made grout to the desired consistency and colour. Add mortar into the pointing gun or pointing bag and apply the mortar into the joints. Once the mortar/grout has dried to a stage where it is no longer tacky to the touch, shape the joint using a jointing tool followed by dry brushing to remove mortar/grout dags. You can sponge the joints after dry brushing to help smooth the joints but be careful not to spread a thin veneer of grout/mortar over the brick face. When sponging clean the sponge constantly.
German Smear
The German Smear finish is a type of mortar wash (or smear). It involves troweling mortar onto a brick wall and then wiping some of it off to expose parts of the brick. We typically advise pointing first (as above) followed by the smearing.
There is no right or wrong to the “German Smear” technique, its just personal preference – its always best to test batches of mortar and application styles on spare bricks before you start on the main project to determine the type of smeared finish you want.
Once the area is pointed/smeared and dry, ensure the slips are clean, dry and free of dust. If sealing (optional), apply a final coat of sealer to protect the surface of the brickwork.
- If used in flooring applications, brick tiles should be sealed.
- If used in wet area applications, brick tiles should be sealed.
Brick tiles can be used for flooring, but it is important to select a brick tile that is specifically rated and suitable for floor applications. When installed as flooring, brick tiles must be securely adhered to a suitable solid substrate, such as a concrete slab or floor-grade cement sheet.
Brick tiles cannot be laid directly onto sand or a compacted base. They are tiles, not pavers, and must be installed using an appropriate adhesive and tiling system.
Tools Required or Handy to Have
Brick facings of your choice
Tile adhesive
(e.g. LATICRETE 335 Super Flex, Ardex X17. Please note while these adhesives are suitable for many applications, it is important that you read the instructions for each adhesive to ensure the glue you choose is suitable for your specific application).Mixing Bucket
Mortar or Grout – if using grout a wide joint grout such as ARDEX WJ 50 must be used.
Pencil
Tile Spacers
Brick Jointing Tool
Spirit Level
Pointing mortar gun or piping bag (highly recommended)
Sealant (Optional – Matt or Gloss depending on what look you want)
Stiff Brush
Tape Measure
Angle grinder with masonry wheel
IMPORTANT
* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.
Substrate
The substrate is the surface the brick tiles/slips/facings are to be stuck to. Brick tiles can be stuck to many substrates with the key requirements being that the substrate must be able to support approx. 35 kg per sq. m. Like all building works, the substrate must be designed and built to comply with relevant building standards (e.g.):
• Concrete designed in accordance with AS 3600;
• Timber framing designed in accordance with AS 1720 and/or AS 1684 and clad with appropriate compressed cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;
• Structural steel in accordance with AS 4100 and clad with appropriate compressed cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;
• Lightweight steel frames in accordance with AS 4600 and clad with appropriate compressed cement sheeting in accordance with manufacturers instructions;
• Masonry in accordance with AS 3700 and/or AS4773;
• Permanent formwork systems, designed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions;
The adhesive chosen must meet or exceed ANSI 118.4 and ANSI 118.11 adhesion standards and be compatible with both clay brick and the substrate. It is important that you read the instructions for any adhesive to ensure the glue you choose is suitable for your specific application.
When a weatherproof external wall is required, an appropriate rigid air barrier, or pliable building membrane manufactured to AS 4200.1 is required to be fitted over the substrate.
IMPORTANT
* As with all building work, advice should be sought from qualified professionals if you are unsure of any aspect of brick laying, cladding or paving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, our brick tiles are cut from full-sized bricks, two tiles per. They are identical to full-sized bricks in all respects except for thickness, as they are cut into a tile format.
Yes, they can be used in wet areas, but we recommend sealing them. Can they be used as a backsplash Absolutely, but sealing is also advised in this case.
Brick tiles can be to various surfaces, including cement sheeting, existing masonry, concrete, and pre-formed systems like Hebal.
Yes, our brick are made by firing clay in kilns at temperatures exceeding 1000 degrees Celsius, making them suitable for heat exposure from fireplaces. They are however not suitable for direct exposure to flames, they are not fire bricks.
Yes, they can be used externally.
Yes, they are suitable for internal.
Yes, all styles are for wall applications.
Yes the following styles are suitable for floors:
- Reclamation Federation Clinkers
- Cottage Reds
- Palomino
- Ochre
- Cottage Red Cobbles
- Prague Cobbles
- Wellington Multis
When used on floors they should be sealed.
Yes, external corners are available for the following brick tile styles:
- Reclamation Heritage Reds
- Palomino
- Weathered Reclamation Heritage Reds
- Reclamation Federation Clinkers
- Weathered Parliament
- Vintage Stock
- Cottage Reds
- Prague Greys
- Jerusalem Whites
Typically standard tile adhesive is use, but you need to choose an adhesive that is compatible with brick or ceramic and whatever the substrate your are sticking them to.
You need to use a wide gap grout, these are grouts formulated for use in wide joints such as Ardex WJ50 range.